The Place
The classy Cantonese restaurant checklist: muted grey walls, private booths, attractive hostesses and glittering chandeliers. As far as looks go, nothing sets Canton 8 apart. What is special about this newly opened InTown plaza eatery isn’t even in Shenzhen – its Shanghai sister restaurant was recently awarded two Michelin stars, becoming the cheapest two-starred restaurant in the world. But the storied streets of Shanghai are a world away from Shenzhen’s recently paved boulevards, raising an obvious question: is our incarnation a coattail-riding cash grab, or the rightful heir to its vaunted namesake?
The Food
Before even setting to work on your first dish, you will notice the low prices, which sit a smidge above local roast and rice joints. Water and tea comes promptly and several times during the meal, which, on our visit, included the best roast pork belly we’ve ever eaten as part of the BBQ platter (RMB88). Imagine crispy, yet not salty, skin upon a buttery layer of fat underneath.
Asking how they could possibly serve such good cuts with each meal, we’re told the top tier meats make it to diner’s plates – the rest to staff stomachs.
‘Texture’ is the keyword for the RMB38 shrimp wrap in a rice roll, with crispy fried prawns inside. Despite the hype, we didn’t find the sweet and sour pork particularly inspiring, though the usual pairing of pineapple has been switched out for lychee. A Pepsi challenge with other restaurants might end in a draw at the RMB68 price point.
For a kick – keep your recently refilled water nearby – we recommend the (RMB99) fried garlic shrimp. A spicy, salty crunchy crustacean pile that would invite stuffed mouths and crusted lips if it weren’t for our loose handle on tableside decorum.
The Vibe
Pictures of the interior won’t be flooding your WeChat moments anytime soon, but it’s familiar and comfortable, including the iconic high-backed chairs that invite a solid lean during longer dinners, while the food rivals some of the best Cantonese in town and comes paired with expertly trained staff and to-the-point presentation. Canton 8 isn’t a Shanghai doppelganger, it’s the real deal – including prices that make you think you’ve gotten away with only paying half the bill.
Price: RMB150-200
Who’s going: locals and savvy foodies
Good for: affordable fine dining, attentive service
Nearest metro: Gangxia (Exit C), 11 minutes
Daily 11am-3pm and 5pm-10pm. See listing for Canton 8.
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